well, you know, I'm not suggesting that you should take more risk. I just think it's some and I acknowledge. I'm involved in some things that are a little risky. And Riley a little intentionally because I find it very I find the mitigate the surfing for me the surfing is I'm really scared of sharks and I'm really really scared of that type of death like having put myself into a situation that's athletically stupid. I'm unprepared for and then I end up as you said under a wave or or same thing on the horse, right? I've been we've been jumping these horses and and I remember recently I'm like headed towards the Like I don't know two-foot jump and I'm looking at it and I'm in this kind of dissociate. It's real estate almost we're really focused. You're really really right there in the moment. But I'm also having this feeling of like, I'm just kind of assuming the horse is going to go over this thing and then you know, you know that doesn't always happen and people end up like flailed on the ground and but but it's that exposure to that anxiety not like I'm a risk taker and unnecessarily or thrill-seeker like that, but there's something about it. I find super motivating and keeping safe. Because I have that but it's interesting you have to stance and it maybe it's that you know, you've had some pretty unfortunate things in a certain way in terms of some pancreatic cancer is a really rare cancer. Dementia is, you know, not super rare but pretty rare and so I appreciate their there are specific reasons that you feel you're going to end up that way. I kind of end up in those situations and I think I get into this mental space that like maybe this is too much hubris. Right and I'm not going to end up to that way, you know and that and then I'm gonna I'm going to be really I think that's what pulls me into those things. That's interesting. See I think you know, I have visions
that like my default assumption is that I will end up that way because I've seen I don't know if this has anything to do with it. But I mean it may that I've seen really seen the vulnerability in the Frailty.
Well, you have mean it's closed. Yeah personal. Well, I think you're also talking. I mean anybody who doesn't acknowledge that I remember when I was in Puerto Rico surfing some guy came out that had dislocated his hip. And I remember thinking like I'm vaguely remember how to put the hip back in then I realized I was like no that's not my foot in your hip in the psychiatrist you randomly on the beach with you, but that the you you definitely see the results of it. I don't think you should be disassociated from that in any way. Yeah, we really what will also you know, you're also thinking about maybe surfing in that kind of California guy like big wave surfing and I think that There's something about the motion that connects these three dangerous sports snowboarding horseback riding and surfing there's something about the brief suspension of gravity and the kind of mimicking of flying feeling and I think it'd be really interesting to long board with you. We're in a really rolling like one to two foot wave. I think you'd really actually like it because there's no risk like the only way you're going to die is if you like jump into the water headfirst
and like really try to
it's in at the same time even with that very small wave. The forces a little terrifying as you know, you've been in the ocean it would be yeah. Because I think that that is you're going to die surfing. I think that that that's I mean you feel that way, but you have to remember you're always when you're out in the outside. Usually you're just falling in the water. And actually the biggest challenge of it. I found is controlling the breath and not being anxious. Well well being surrounded in the midst of something that is so much more powerful than you are that you actually it's not you're not in your alpha predator status. You're just you're just split some I think that's one of the that's one of the beautiful
things about surfing right that there's like the spiritual
component to it, which
even from afar I can definitely appreciate.
You know, I'm brought my wetsuit my backpack and I'm literally leaving here right right now and I'm going to get board and paddle out. It's not big at all out. So if you want to have fun I
won't be joining you but I appreciate the invite to Ramsey. It'll be a weekend we'll do like horseback riding snowboarding and surfing all
Drew Ramsey Wants to Take Max Lugavere Surfing
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